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James Long

James Long

DESIGNER NAME: James Long

BACKGROUND: Long completed his MA in menswear and accessories at the Royal College of Art. He worked for Virginia Bates in New York and London before setting up his own label.

SIGNATURES: “Leather, knits and accessories. Strong, bold, directional menswear.”

IDEAL CLIENT: “The model Alex Dunstan is one of my ideal customers.”

TRADEMARK PIECE: “A leather technique piece and a signature knit.”

 

Fred Butler

Fred Butler

DESIGNER NAME: Fred Butler

BACKGROUND: Born in Colchester, England. Fred studied at the University of Brighton and worked with Shona Heath and As FOUR (New York), before setting up her own label.

SIGNATURES: “Wearable sculpture, intricate textures, material manipulation, graphic shape and pattern, strong colour contrast with black and white highlights, iridescence and metallics.”

IDEAL CLIENT: “Anyone who enjoys enhancing their look with an exciting addition to an outfit.”

Felder & Felder

DESIGNER NAMES: Annette Felder and Daniela Felder

BACKGROUND: The Felder sisters are from Germany “but London is our home”. The twin sisters studied at Central St Martins and then started their own label in 2006.

SIGNATURES: “Modern, sexy, cool.”

TRADEMARK PIECE: “A cool leather jacket with rock’n’roll edge worn over one of our signature printed skater dresses.”

IDEAL CLIENT: “A charismatic woman who is at ease with herself and the world. Age doesn’t matter. A Felder Felder woman is young at heart and she is a little wild too.”

THE COLLECTION: “For AW13, Felder Felder merges the cool effortless attitude of the original Z-Boys with an unexpected sexy elegance.”

CULTURAL INFLUENCES: “Felder Felder takes great inspiration from the world of music and we have collaborated with lots of our favourite acts on the soundtrack for our shows.”

 

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Emilio de la Morena

Emilio de la Morena

DESIGNER NAME: Emilio de la Morena

BACKGROUND: Born in Spain, Emilio studied at Central Saint Martins and the London College of Fashion. He has worked for Rafael Lopez and Jonathan Saunders. Emilio is by nature an intellectual designer, whose passion lies in exploring new processes and ways of putting clothes together. He manages to create surprising and fastidiously sexy cocktail looks by modernizing old and obscure craftsmanship techniques. But just as important as the intellectual explorations behind a collection, is the way each garment makes the wearer feel – reinforcing her personality and a sensual femininity.

SIGNATURES: “Sculptural chic.”

IDEAL CLIENT: “She is first and foremost strong, modern and in control. She knows her own mind and is not afraid to stand out; nor is she scared of expressing herself in a vibrant and bold way. She loves playing with her personality and uses dress to express the many layers of her character, always managing to strike the right balance between elegantly refined and provokingly sexy. This woman is in control of her life both emotionally and economically, she lives in or close to a major metropolis, spending most if not all her time in the city. It is important that the work she does stimulates her. Whatever her chosen field, it will be one that she can really commit to. She will be at the centre of the work that she does whatever the industry and whatever the level. Don’t mess with this woman; she will have you wrapped around her little finger in no time.”

 

E.Tautz

E.Tautz

NAME: Patrick Grant

BACKGROUND: Patrick was born in Edinburgh and studied at Leeds and Oxford. He has been running Norton & Sons, a bespoke tailoring house on Savile Row, since 2005.

SIGNATURES: “At the heart of the E. Tautz collection is Savile Row cutting; elegant shoulders, suppressed waist, well proportioned, well balanced and unfussy in keeping with the sporting and military traditions. E. Tautz like simple cutting paired with bold accents of colour and pattern – cloths with scale and texture; big checks, fine flannels, and stripes.”

IDEAL CLIENT: “The Tautz man has a classic English sensibility mixed with a kind of schoolboy humour; he likes to dress elegantly, but enjoys clothes with wit.”

TRADEMARK PIECE: “I think probably our hand appliquéd knits, they sum up everything we stand for: simple, beautifully handmade, with a schoolboy sense of humour and style.”

E.Tautz won the Menswear Designer award at the British Fashion Awards 2010.

David Koma

DESIGNER NAME: David Koma

BACKGROUND: Born in Georgia, David then grew up in Saint-Petersburg. David studied both his BA and MA at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design.

SIGNATURES: “Sculptural shapes, heavy embellishment and a perfect fit.”

IDEAL CLIENT: “Powerful and confident.”

TRADEMARK PIECE: “The sculptural dress with metal embellishment.”

THE COLLECTION: “For this AW13 collection the inspiration is sound, rhythm and movement.”

CULTURAL INFLUENCES: “Art always influences my collections, and for this season, the theme is related to music.”



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DAKS

DAKS

DESIGNER NAME: Sheila McKain-Waid

BACKGROUND: Sheila was born in the USA. She studied Apparel Design in New York at the Fashion Institute of Technology and a BA (hons) degree in Textiles Design at the University of Kansas. Before Daks, she worked at Halston, Donna Karen and Oscar De la Renta “where I worked with luxury materials, and learnt about beautiful craftsmanship, simplicity and draping.”

SIGNATURES: “Simplicity and elegance with a British sense of timelessness and luxury.”

IDEAL CLIENT: “She has a timeless, classic, elegance. It’s more about style and attitude.”

TRADEMARK PIECE: “Outerwear.”

THE COLLECTION: “I started this season looking at a book on folding and interesting methods of manipulating fabrics in non-traditional ways, and I am always looking at pushing proportions and construction.”

CULTURAL INFLUENCES: “Our brand has a long history of collaborations with artists and illustrators, and each season we tend to work with one or two people in varying creative industries. It is very inspiring and always brings a fresh way of looking at materials and processes to the studio.”

 

 

 

Craig Green

Craig Green

DESIGNER NAME: Craig Green

BACKGROUND: Craig completed both his BA and MA at Central Saint Martins. He worked with Walter van Beirendonck and Henrik Vibskov before starting his own label.

SIGNATURES: “Masculinity. I strongly believe in D.I.Y; I love using structure, finishing and materials in new ways. I’m always drawn to utilitarian feeling materials and how they can be used within my work.”

IDEAL CLIENT: “I don’t like to second guess who my customer would be, I think it’s out of my hands at this point and exciting to find out who it might be. Someone who isn’t scared.”

Christopher Shannon

DESIGNER NAME: Christopher Shannon

ORIGIN: Liverpool

DESIGN BACKGROUND: Christopher is a graduate of MA Menswear at Central Saint Martins. He first received NEWGEN MEN sponsorship in autumn/winter 2010.

DESIGN SIGNATURES: “They seem to evolve all the time. My collections feature performance fabrics, clean silhouettes and just the right amount of drama.”

IDEAL CLIENT: “I’m never quite sure, I don’t like to second-guess our customer, I think it is more important to keep the work interesting. Also, I think we have different men – some who like the mainline while others who will go for the jersey or collaborative pieces. I prefer not to know.”

TRADEMARK PIECE: “Hard to say. I suppose the sweatshirts and sweaters are always present in different forms. I love going back and working into ideas.”

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