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Tag Archives AW 2015

Motohiro Tanji 丹治 基浩

Motohiro Tanji attended Nottingham Trent University in England obtaining a MA Knitwear design. He established his brand after his return to Japan in 2012 with the release of his first season Spring/Summer 2013.

Designer Profile

慶應義塾大学卒業後、ノッティンガムトレント大学 MAニットウェアデザイン科を首席で卒業。
卒業後様々なメゾンにニットテキスタイルを提供するイギリスのAcorn Conceptual Textilesに勤務。
2012年に帰国。2013春夏シーズンより自身のブランド「モトヒロ タンジ(Motohiro Tanji)」をスタート。
2013年Tokyo新人デザイナーファッション大賞 プロ部門に選出される。
Brand Profile

[ブランド創設年] 2012年

モトヒロ タンジ(Motohiro Tanji)は日本のニットウェアブランド。

2013年春夏シーズンに丹治基浩(Motohiro Tanji)が自身の名を冠したブランドをスタートする。

モトヒロ タンジは、独自のテクスチャーにこだわり、手編み、自動機、家庭機を使い、ニットだけでトータルコーディネートできるようウェアから小物までをトータルで提案するニットブランド。

His brand is an experimental knitwear label that creates unique textures through knit fabrics using both hand and knitting machines to form balanced all-knit looks from accessories to total coordinates.

 AW15-16 Collection

Autumn/Winter 2015 color is deep blue, black and off white. The knitting technique is machine done but with the intricacy of a piece of artwork. The three-dimensional patterns seemed to take life of its own during the catwalk presentation.

The spotlights were aimed down in a circular shape when the models emerged from the dark, as a scene from a sci–fi movie one could only expect the new species to be introduced.

 

The collection was inspired by ancient ruins, the steps and weaving knitted patterns were symbolic and reflected the mood-board below which was part of the inspiration for designer Motohiro Tanji.  We talked to him after the show for a few minutes and he told us the process to make the garments and the effect he was looking to create.

We touched the knitted fabric and he told us the process was machine-made, it look so 3-d and original that we only wished we could get a few to bring home.

You can actually see the intricacy of the design and the volume it adds the protruding details.

Motohiro Tanji AW15/16 image by Akin Abayomi
Long knitted top in black color, it can be paired down with slacks, skirt or just wore as a short dress.

A regal Blue ensemble of skirt and top both knitted in the signature style inspired by ancient ruins.

Motohiro Tanji AW15/16

A light color palette in ivory tone was used for this collection as well.

 

No ordinary brand, a unique style in textile and design.

Motohiro Tanji AW15/16 image by Akin Abayomi

Erika Cavallini Semi-Couture

Erika Cavallini Fall-Winter 2015/16 semi-couture Collection was presented in Milan and the inspiration was set to be “The day after the party” in a mix of wild spirit with liberating and chipped romance.

The models worked the runway in Mannish tailoring, floating volumes and air moving between the layers of gestural flower prints mixed with bold and geometric patterns. We see a wild inclusion of fabrics dynamically blended together Triple jacquard, muslin, crepe de chine, organza and boiled wool.

ERIKA CAVALLINI Semicouture FW 15-16 FASHION SHOW (19)_small ERIKA CAVALLINI Semicouture FW 15-16 FASHION SHOW (27)_smallHere we see the influence of the Japonisme style with the Kimono belt

Y/Project

 


 Y/PROJECT


y project0034_small

The AW Collection offers an intelligent twist of futuristic hip-hop and classic elegance.

For his 3rd season as creative director of Y/PROJECT  AW15, Glenn Martens proposes a fascinating juxtaposition of classic & tech fabrics that create Op-Art effects; by mixing materials like harris & hounds tooth tweeds with hologram latex and vinyl.

By opposing architectural cuts with comfortable fits, graphic tailoring with urban streetcar and technical highlights, Y/PROJECT continues to thrive on transcendent versatility.

 

Glen continues to explore the fine border between youth and adulthood.  Tweed track pants, sleek vinyl suits & scooter jackets, easy wool bombers with shearling lining, vegetal treated leather trench coats with jean jacket paneling, knitwear with leather details…

Following in line with the hip-hop vibe, the Y/project jewelry line debuts with logo rings and belt buckles.

AW 2015 Menswear Collection

Press images courtesy of Ritual Projects

Fabio Quaranta A/W 2016

Fabio Quaranta A/W 15 Paris Menswear Fashion

Fabio Quaranta’s vision

Leaving aside the aesthetic references to the worlds of fashion and contemporary music, this season the investigation concentrates on traditional dress. Looking for that folk aesthetic as a tradition, as archetype of people’s culture and appearance.

An element of a narrative object was developed in this collection, the iconic garments so characteristic of the classic tailoring were analyzed in their entirety.

A Game of Cross over seems to be the synthesis of the collection. Through a process of ‘Cut-Up’ and manipulation, clothes are decontextualized, almost swallowed one into the other and are adapted for use by both. There os a loss of gender and a synthesis capable of creating another:

“PANDROGENIA”, a term borrowed from the artist Genesis P-orridge almost a tribute to the work he carried out with his wife Lady Jane.

 

For more on the brands visit, www.fabioquarant.it

Images courtesy of Akin Abayomi