CHALAYAN : AUTUMN | WINTER 2017 ACT TO FORM

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Our sense of universal personhood is in a state of flux. ‘Act to form’ is a collection inspired by looking at new, isolated individuals that the current world order is generating.

The collection whilst attempting to uplift and empower also marks a sense of fake celebration of various events taking place around us.

The Balkan era of Greek Folk culture is used as a symbol of historical empowerment throughout the collection, connecting today’s sense of world citizenship to the ideals of personhood stemming from European Phil-Hellenic sentiments of the early 19th Century.

The shapes within the collection are generally loose and relaxed yet structured,there is also an emphasis on seaming and finishing details where different seam widths create disparate compositions on the surfaces.  Feminine dresses appear as though they are about to fall off the shoulders, purposely cut this way they are loose at the top, cinched at the waist. Some styles of this story are offered in a light, crisp felt juxtaposed with a fluid felt that follows the drape of the garment.

House Tailoring is fused with shirts where jackets whilst skimming the shoulders wrap around the body to create new hybrid shapes.

There are built in folk waistcoats on classic coats and Jackets available in various weights of double faced felts and wool compositions.

Loose carrot-shaped pants and pencil skirts have integrated bold felted stripes or traditional Greek inspired wrap belts in the waistbands.

A series of white shirts are either imbued with medallion like accessories, or similar to the coats and jackets, have waistcoats built into them.

Black striped cottons, at times padded for pants possess small hand drawn Ancient Greek Sculptures on plinths, which have been hand embroidered to create a sense of spontaneity and charm.

Relaxed chunky knits and felted cashmere blends are chosen for layering pieces, at times finished with a medallion holding pocket. Luxurious merino wool has been used for signature optional roll-neck jumpers and dresses featuring fitted ribbed bodices and square necklines paired with mohair trims and pleated skirts.

 

Colours and Fabrics 

Devore and print blends of hand drawn Greek Costumes with missing elements and spontaneous scribbles.

A custom Jacquard depicts an Ancient Greek city map fused with a modern Manhattan grid system.

Velvets have been printed onto, creating new textures.

Hand drawn Greek figures were scribbled over, the image then embroidered onto black striped shirting fabric and mixed with knitted felt fabrics.

Tailoring fabrics are subdued, principally available in concrete, black and midnight.

Knitwear in felt, merino and thick cashmere blends are in midnight, black and white while merino jumpers are also displayed in a monochromatic Delta pattern, burgundy, off white and chocolate.

Images provided courtesy of Chalayan’s press. SPRING London
Image credit: Chris Moore
XOXO LIVINGFASH